Report on Arnhem Land Barramundi Nature Lodge
Bird Bonanza (27th August – 1st Sept 2010)

By Johnny Estbergs    

Wow, what a very successful tour, 168 species were recorded over the period 27 Aug – 1st Sept 2010! Check this web site further for a spreadsheet detailing observations for the period comparing earlier trips. What follows is a general account of the places we visited and what was observed. 

DAY ONE  (3/4 day) started well. Within an hour of departing Maningrida Airport and settling into the lodge, several species had been checked off our “Hope to see lists”. We left the Lodge for the Tompkinson River Flood Plain passing through some tall Eucalypt Forest which yielded the Black-tailed Tree Creeper and Red-chested Babblers, (The local race of the Grey Crowned Babbler). On entering the flood plain it was noted that more of the grass/sedge cover had been burnt since the last visit (in July) enabling us to pick up birds sooner and get some great sights.

The highlight for us was a short walk across the plain to a ridge where we saw…. Hooded Parrots, Gouldian Finches and Northern Crested Shrike-tits. A Golden-backed Honeyeater was heard here and all this in the space of 15 minutes. We came across another group of Gouldian Finches and the Yellow Tinted Honeyeater. Further along the floodplain we checked out some paperbark billabongs/swamps and at day’s end had a list of 66 species recorded by the team. We had an excellent opportunity to view a flock of around 80 Brolgas while out on the flood plain too. 

DAY TWO saw us headed for Escarpment country 96 km west of the lodge. We observed more Gouldian Finches and picked up the northern race of Grey Butcherbird (Silver-backed) on the way.

After parking we proceeded on foot for a 2 + 1/2 hour round trip. First cab off the rank was the melodious Sandstone Shrike-thrush. We headed further into the rock escarpment in search of White-lined Honeyeaters. We reached a creek and heard them but could not see them. The tree canopy was so thick it hid them from view, so we climbed up the scree slope side of the escarpment to get a better view.

There was a fairly stiff wind blowing and it kept the birds low, out of sight in the tree canopy, and trying to squeak them up proved impossible. Then a honeyeater came out of the dense foliage and was followed in flight through binoculars until it alighted in what was the only eucalypt in flower, higher up the slope from us.

Well, if we couldn’t entice them out ourselves then this tree provided the very thing we needed. We climbed up to eye level with the eucalypt blossom, then sat and waited for the honeyeaters to come to us. The strong wind was still forcing everything to stay low, however, after around 20 minutes the wind stopped unexpectedly, so squeaking calls were resumed. A party of Dusky Honeyeaters immediately responded and these were soon followed by three White-lined Honeyeaters.

That was a fitting reward for our efforts and as a bonus the Striated (Black-headed) Pardelote put in an appearance too. As we climbed down the wind came gusting back. Lucky?  

We had been checking the escarpment all morning for a glimpse of the Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon without success, when on our way back to the vehicle, not one but three emerged from under bushes down on the flat. Good clear views of the pigeons capped off this trip and we recorded an excellent 69 species on the day’s journey.      

DAY THREE.  Well after the previous two days we were wondering what could we come up on Day 3 to compare. We headed offshore by boat for Haul Round Island to check out the sea birds. The trip out was a smooth cruise and the terns were out there in force, as several thousand birds were to be seen either hovering over the island or sitting together on sand.  We recorded six tern species, a Lesser Frigate-bird and there were two Black Noddies sighted. Both Pied and Sooty Oyster Catchers, Ruddy Turnstones, Brown Boobies and both colour phases Eastern Reef Egret were also recorded.

In addition we saw signs on the beach that marine turtles had visited the previous night. Next it was on to Godgiramma Creek in search of Chestnut Rail. We could hear its raucous calls but sadly missed seeing these shy birds. Black Butcherbirds and a Great-billed Heron had us excited and Mangrove Gerygone was seen too. 

After returning to Maningrida from the boat trip we headed off to Crab Creek and along the way we stopped to view two Red Goshawks, one of which was on the nest. What a fantastic sighting. At Crab Creek we also came up with Mangrove Grey Fantail and Arafura Fantail. Our final tally was an incredible 93 species for the day!!  

DAY FOUR  Another exciting day saw us taking a boat along the Cadel River which merges into the Blyth and out to the river mouth to hopefully view congregated waders at the top of the tide.  After the boat trip we then drove around the adjoining black-soil river flood plains and along Paperback swamps and on to the Cadel Rainforest.

On the rivers, we saw Black-necked Stork and Great-billed Heron, Brahminy Kites, the White-bellied Sea Eagles and a small flock of Terek Sandpipers which was quite exciting. At the Blyth mouth we came across one huge flock of waders made up of Great Knots, Red Knots, Greater and Lesser Sandplovers, Eastern Curlews, Ruddy Turnstones, Whimbrels, Black-tailed Godwits. A few assorted terns and silver gulls were scattered along the fringes of the waders congregation.  

The Blacksoil Plains gave us views of Asian Water Buffalo, Australian Pratincole and Hundreds of Brolgas. While inside the Cadel Rainforest we noted both the Large-tailed Nightjar and Rufous Owl. On the way back to the lodge we called into a nearby Crater Lake off the Cadel Road and saw over 150 Australian Grebes and 30+ Hardhead Ducks.  An unbelievable 92 species recorded on the day!! 

DAY FIVE  A good days birding to Moormaker Billabong. Enroute  we searched a creek, where we came across a bunch of Feral Pigs and a family group of 8 Red-backed Wrens mostly in eclipse plumage.  In addition we spotted Radjah Shell Ducks, Rufous Night Herons and Glossy Ibis. We heard Rose-crowned Fruit Doves, saw a Pheasant Coucal and Long-tailed Finches.

We walked right round the billabong then down its spillway looking for the Barking Owl. Finally located, it took off  after we had approached to within 20 meters and then flew across the channel hiding in the thick leaves out of sight up high on the far bank of the billabong. Not being able to see it encouraged me to give a few owl calls, whereupon the Owl left its concealed position and flew straight for me, eventually, perching just above my head!

Wow…. Fantastic close up views where had by all. On the way back to the lodge along the main road we came across a Spotted Harrier, enjoyed some good views of Varied Lorikeets, Masked Finches and saw Brush and Pallid Cuckoos. Interestingly we saw one Yellow Billed Spoonbill among a group of other assorted waterbirds on the Tompkinson River Crossing.

Another brilliant day with 78 species being recorded. 

DAY SIX    With ½ a day remaining we decided to chase the Chestnut Chook again on Middle Creek  a tributary of the Liverpool River. Sadly we only heard the Chestnut Rail once again, however, Little Kingfisher and Shining Flycatcher and a White–bellied Sea Eagle plus a Radjah Shell Duck made up for this. An Azure Kingfisher and Yellow White-eye were treasures also. Seeing another Great-billed Heron and later, an Australian Hobby flying overhead topped the trip off.       
 
SUMMARY Generally speaking, bird density was down for terrestrial birds, particularly Finches and the Large Flocks of Red-tailed Black Cockatoos have dispersed. The terns on Haul Round Is. still had young as did Silver Gulls. We missed some obvious species like the Osprey for instance. Magpie Geese were recorded only as they literally flew into the Lodge one evening. Rain had fallen the week earlier germinating many seeds making everything look just that bit more green & fresh. Water had not completely dried up on the floodplains and was still fairly deep in the paperbark swamps. Interestingly only one Black Kite was seen, even though fires were common enough, in-fact raptor numbers have not returned, the abundance of food in central and southern Australia has kept them away. An exciting excursion with 168 species and lots of interesting happenings, we really look forward the next Birding Tour to this unique area. 

Written by Johnny Estbergs. September 2010.